So that is what I ended up climbing on during the trip. Later I picked up a pair of the G22s to try out as well.īut it was the Petzl Dartwins that fit my boots, Phantom Ultras and Spantiks, the best without any modifications. Any of the three fit my boots very well.īut I ended up walking in Snell's and buying a new pair of Dartwins. I had Dartwins and Darts at home as well as Grivel G12s. ![]() Trivial but annoying if you continue the relationship. Annoying like a tick annoys you on a day out climbing. The fact I would have to buy a pair of crampons in Chamonix at retail, that I had duplicates of hanging n the gear wall at home irritated me. ![]() But at that point I was no longer interested in climbing on any BD crampon. They were easy it replace with a Grivel G20 or the original Dart. I didn't care about "losing" the the Stingers. When asked by Black Diamond to return my Stingers for my public comments on the broken Sabertooths that were appearing on the Internet, I balked. The Cyborgs, heavy but proven reliability in comparison to the other two. The Stingers were a virtual copy of the Petzl Dart and my second choice for climbing in the Alps. And it was breaking last winter in first gen. I had Sabertooth Pros, Cyborgs and the new Stinger in my kit. Last winter after all my gear was on the way to Cham I got in a pissing match with my contacts at Black Diamond about the reliability of the crampons I wanted to use. How people aren't more seriously injured in those incidents I have no clue. I talk to climbers on a regular basis that have lost crampons from a poor fit. I've only lost a crampon once, with almost fatal results, how I fit my own crampons is a serious matter to me. (or at least should be imo)įor those that have followed the CT blog I would guess that is no surprise. ![]() One of the things that was made clear to me in the discussion is that crampon fit is generally the defining factor of your own crampon of choice. There was a distinct reason I bought the newest Petzl offering having already owned just about every easily available crampon on the US market.Ī couple of weeks ago I hosted a discussion with the local Mountaineering club on ice climbing and the gear we use to climb it with. But the Lynx I bought with my own cash so take what I say here with that under consideration. Not because some one gave me the gear and they do now and again. You get what I think is important to me.and just me.as a climber. Best to know who pays the author and how. That is a long way of saying verify and trust no one when it comes to reviews. Even with those (minor to me) faults I still wear it on almost every winter climb. Yet it is still the best in category imo. Atom lt for example? No zipper stop, no two way main zipper, no draw cord on the hood. Some times I will intentionally leave off the minor down sides on a product I think so good it isn't worth mentioning. If you are looking for good info to make a purchase from the writer who doesn't mention the down side is simply a thief or an idiot. CT hammers and the NWA Salopette I dearly love fall into that category.īottom line if you tell me all the good things about a product and never mention the down sides.either you are a DOLT or you think I am. Even stuff I helped design from the very beginning is not immune and generally takes a rethink once or twice to get right. Even my all time favorites, the Nomic, the Scarpa Ultra or the Atom LT could easily be improved. Last I did a full mental check (30 minutes ago) there is not a single bit of kit I own or have owned that I didn't think needed "fix'in" in one way or another. ![]() Same piece of kit but two totally different opinions on the details. Who came back to my comment with nothing but glowing reviews of the same jacket. I was shall we say, "less impressed" than their gear editor. Likely the Editor on their web site and I got or preseason samples from the same place. Then more recently when I asked I made a rather bland comment on one of the newest soft shells coming to the market. I had written for them in the past and thought, "hey why not again?" We had a few earlier discussions on how Cold Thistle benefited their customer base (my view) and how I was stealing traffic from their web site (their view). "Commercial" in that they take loads of free gear, then write editorial comments on that free gear (and support that opinion in the forums to the uneducated) and sell commecial ads to support their website and staff from that content. This review started with a request by a popular and very commercial UK web site asking me to review the new Petzl Lynx.
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